It's a BRISTOL day when the sails are full. . .
Breaking news from Marina di Ragusa, Sicily. S/V DESTINY is FOR SALE in the Med. See page at top for complete specifications and pictures or click here http://www.saildestiny.com/?page_id=3684.
SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY.
With the weather remaining unsettled in April and our marina contract not due to expire until May 1st, we spent much of the month readying Destiny for the upcoming cruising season. On one sunny Friday, however, we joined fellow cruisers Tina and Pete in renting a car and traveling to Agrigento site of the famous Valley of the Temples.
Since Tina and Pete have a sweet little girl dog named “Bella”, this was to be a people and dog outing. We set out from Marina di Ragusa in our tiny rental car with a GPS loaned to us by another cruiser and promptly got lost before we could get the device programmed.
What we expected to be a 2 hour drive proved to be 3 hours going (which included getting lost) and about 2 ½ on the way back, leaving only a few hours to visit the Valley of the Temples. As it turned out the trip was worth it.
Entering the Valley of the Temples is stepping back thousands of years to ancient Greece.
Spring is a magical time to visit ancient sites. As far as the eye can see, a profusion of flowers carpet the ground–yellow daisies and lavender flowers of unknown name. Yellow is the predominant color of the flowering trees as well. The plants remind me of Scotch broom lining the by-ways of Nantucket in the spring.
Purple flowers peek out from the ancient stones. . .
and yellow flowering trees frame the walkways.
The Valley of the Temples is said to rank among the most impressive Greek ruins outside of Greece, with several temples surprisingly in tact given earthquakes and destruction wrought by Christians who believed them to be pagan.
The Temple of Hephaistos left a lot to the imagination, but was one of the lesser monuments.
Remains of Temple of Olympian Zeus is little more than a pile of rocks. . .
while the Temple of Juno's columns rise skyward after thousands of years.
At least one of the temples, Temple of Concord was converted to a Christian church in the 6th Century and is extremely well preserved.
Construction on the Temple of Concord began in 430 B.C. . .
and it is prominently situated in the center of the ridge along which the temples are arranged.
We happened to arrive at the Valley of the Temples, a national historic site, at the tail end of a week when all Sicilian cultural venues were open to the public free of charge. The usual admission is 10 euros per person.
Tourists flocked to the Temple of Concord during free entrance days.
Dogs are not allowed at some archeological sites, so we took no chances and sneaked Jolie and Bella past the guard at the entrance. Once inside, it was clear that no one cared about the dogs and they enjoyed a romp when not being carried like the little princesses that they are.
Jolie is in her bag hidden by Kent's jacket as we pass the security guard. . .
but it proved to be unnecessary--here they are relaxing under an olive tree.
Ancient olive trees are scattered throughout the temples. . .
along with one bronze sculpture (circa 2011) that is . . .
thought provoking to say the least. Fallen angel? Really?
I’m a little perplexed by the title “Valley” of the Temples when in fact the temples line a ridge that parallels the modern city of Agrigento inland from the ancient site.
From the ancient site you see modern Agrigento is the inland ridge. . .
while in the opposite direction you see the distant sea. . .
and valley below through the broken fortifications.
Trekking around ancient sites has become quite routine since we have been in the Med, but it never loses its appeal. Especially when the experience is shared with friends.
Tina, Pete & Bella take a break. . .
as do we. . .under yet another flowering tree.
But there is one more stop. . .at Temple of Herakles 6th Century BC.
We named the GPS “Betty” and followed her directions all the way home in record time. Kent says he needs one of these gadgets for the rare times we land travel—I’ll second that!
We’re out of the marina and cruising again. More adventures to follow.
Destiny arrived at Grand Harbor Marina in Malta on Maundy Thursday. We needed a spring “shake down” cruise and heading south 50 NM from Destiny’s winter home in Marina di Ragusa, Sicily to spend Easter weekend in Malta seemed perfect.
Our sails are full once again. . .
and Kent is a happy captain.
Malta and neighboring Gozo are steeped in history being situated at the cross roads of Europe and the African continent, but are best known for the several hundred years that the Knights of St. John occupied the islands.
Destiny is berthed at the end of Dock C which leads directly to the Maritime Museum at Grand Harbor Marina, Malta. . .
which is currently undergoing an expansion.
In 1565 the Knights of St. John and Maltese residents, vastly outnumbered by the forces of Suleiman the Great defeated the Turks and their planned take over of the islands. The Great Siege as it is known was a turning point in the island’s history and resulted in even more fortifications being built by the Knights.
Fort St. Angelo sits at the entrance to Great Harbor Marina and was part of the Great Siege.
Most of the Maltese population is Catholic and Easter is a particular cause for solemnity and joyous celebration on the island.
On Good Friday, it is tradition for the parish churches to stage elaborate processions that include life size statues depicting the Passion Play being carried through the streets. On the waterfront of Grand Harbor in front of the marina is the Church of St. Lawrence (or San Lawrenz, as it is known to the Maltese).
The Church of St. Lawrence is to the right of the Maritime Museum and adjacent to the marina.
San Lawrenz Church. . .
raises colorful banners on Good Friday morning.
After a several hour service commemorating the crucifixion and death of Christ, the parishioners take to the streets at 6 p.m. carrying massive wooden structures on their shoulders that portray Christ’s life in the final days of his life.
People gather outside the church waiting for the procession. . .
and mingle with participants. . .
in Biblical dress. . .
and Roman finery.
Even with up to eight barrel-chested men carrying each structure, there are frequent rests stops.
The first float of the procession is carried by. . .
eight strong men.
There were a hundred or more people who participated in the procession, including small children.
The life size statues of Christ are carried down the church steps and through the streets. . .
as onlookers line the streets. . .
watching the pagentry.
Both adults and children participate. . .
all with solemn expressions.
The Good Friday procession ends with Christ on the cross, and the expressions of the faces of everyone in the procession is mournful and sad.
As the sun sets. . .comes the most solemn part of the procession. . .as Christ on the cross is carried through the streets
preceded by Roman sentries.
We were told that the roles played in this annual Passion Play are passed down from generation to generation within each parish. The amazing thing is that nearly every parish on the island will stage the similar procession. In Malta Good Friday is a national holiday.
And then it was over. . .until next Good Friday.
On Easter Sunday we attended St. Paul’s Pro Cathedral in Valletta, built between 1839 and 1844 within the fortifications of Valletta. St. Paul’s is one of only two Anglican Churches on the island of Malta, and most of its parishioners are expats from the United Kingdom & Ireland. The Cathedral’s spire, which is quite distinctive on the skyline of Valletta escaped serious damage in the heavy bombardment during the Second World War when Malta was an Allied base.
Spire of St. Paul's Co-Cathedral. . .the Anglican Church in Valletta.
The interior simplicity of the Cathedral is in striking contrast to the opulence of the various Catholic parish churches we saw in Malta, not to mention St. John’s Co-Cathedral.
St. Paul's Co-Catheral was simply decorated. . .
with candles. . .
and white calla lilies.
The architecture of the building was dramatic but not ornate, and the congregation very welcoming.
We stopped at St. John’s during the Easter service there and were overwhelmed by the ornate decoration of the building and the profusion of white flowers.
St. John's Pro-Cathedral, Valletta, with its simple lines belies the ornate interior.
After the church services we had Easter lunch at a restaurant on a large square just in front of the Grand Master’s Palace.
Malata Restaurant has outdoor tables or cozy interior space in a cave-like room.
We can highly recommend the French Lamb Shank in red wine reduction. . .and Fresh Grilled Swordfish
After our scrumptious Easter lunch, we toured The Grand Master’s Palace, built in the late 16th Century after the Great Siege when Valletta was founded.
Overlooking the courtyard at the Grand Masters Palace. . .
is a clock tower that also tells the day, month and phase of the moon.
The palace was occupied by the Grand Master of the Knights of St. John until 1798 when Napoleon invaded the island. The Knights all but vanished after that, but the Palace State Rooms and Armory are open to the public and provide a glimpse back in time.
The Grand Masters Palace is filled with decorative surfaces. . .
and coats of arms set into the floor. . .
that are cordoned off from footsteps in the Grand Hall lined by knights armor.
Being in Malta on Easter weekend and observing the intersection between the island’s religious and military history was particularly interesting. The religious traditions date back hundreds of years to the Knights of St. John, but are very much a part of Malta’s modern identity.
But there is more to Malta. . .next post.
There is much more to Malta than its religious celebrations for Easter, and we spent several days exploring other aspects of the island.
Good Friday, which would end with the solemn procession, dawned with bright sunshine and blue sky—perfect for touring the island.
First we set out in the dinghy to see the fortifications that make Valletta and its surroundings famous. There is an impressive breakwater that shelters the entrance to Grand Harbor, one of the most well protected natural harbors in the Mediterranean.
We started our tour at Grand Harbor Marina. . .where Destiny was moored.
Grand Harbor Marina is on one of the so-called “Three Cities”—Birgu was also known a Vittoriosa after the Great Siege in 1565. At the head of the peninsula created by Dockyard Creek and Kalkara Greek is Fort St. Angelo from which the Knights defended the island against the Sultan’s forces.
We left the "high rent" district in Grand Harbor Marina. . .
and took the dinghy to the other side of Valletta where we saw the spire of St. Paul's Co-Cathedral.
Fort St. Elmo and the fortifications a Valletta
On the Marsamxett Harbor side of Valletta are other marinas and boatyards, as well as a small gas station where we got fuel for the outboard.
We passed the fortification on Manoel Island. . .on the way to get gas. . .
and meandered through all the local boats on moorings.
The town of Sliema faces east to Valletta and is lined with high rise hotels and apartments catering to mostly Brits on holiday. The street running along the waterfront is filled with tour buses and cafes–much more “touristy” than Vittoriosa.
Sliema is lined with hotels & condos. . .
has a wonderful view of Valletta.
After returning to the marina, we set out for Valletta by dghajsas, a small wood boat of ancient Maltese design that now serves as a water taxi. A small outboard, mounted on the side makes the oars mostly ornamental.
One of the colorful, decorated traditional boats serving as a water taxis. . .
took us to Valletta--just 10 min. away across Grand Harbor. . .
which is a busy commercial port. . .
dominated by freighters and cruise ships that reach the height of the walls.
For 5 euros each we traveled the short distance from the marina to the commercial dock at Valletta, only to find that we were dropped off on a dock that was locked up tight because Good Friday, is a Maltese holiday. We went from gate to gate trying to find a way out with no luck.
I barely squeezed through a gate that opened about 10 inches on its chain, but when Kent tried to follow—no way! So now he is on one side of the fence and I am on the other. Eventually, he found a place where he could climb over.
Notice the spikes on the top of the fence that Kent climbed over. . .yikes!
Once outside we headed uphill to the town of Valletta. Valletta was a planned city built after the Great Siege and heavily fortified. The streets run parallel in grid-like fashion with Republic and Merchant Streets being the main thoroughfares. There is little vehicle traffic permitted in the city.
Horse & buggy is another. . .
"Malta Experience" in Valletta.
On Good Friday, many of the historic buildings were closed for the holiday, but the streets and cafes were filled with people.
Queen Victoria's statue and ever present pidgeons, are focal points of one of Valletta's Squares.
The churches were preparing for the processions that would take place later in the day, but we had wonderful views of the marina at Birgu.
From highup in Valletta we caught a unique view of Fort St. Angelo and Grand Harbor Marina.
On Saturday, another perfect day for sightseeing, we took one of the red double-deck Malta Sightseeing buses from the marina.
The double decker sightseeing bus was a great way to see the sights.
Hop-on, hop-off tours are a great way to see a lot in a short time, and at 15 euros per person are a good value too.
We hoped off at the village of Zejtun to visit the parish church. . .
where men stored the props from the Good Friday procession (in this case the golden ark). . .
and women cleaned the church in preparation for Easter.
Next we headed to the south shore of Malta, to a traditional fishing vilalge.
Marsaxlokk is a typical fishing village. . .that is post card perfect. . .
where outdoor dining in the shadow of the parish church. . .
and along the quay seemed more popular than fishing. . .the fleet was in.
Driving past rolling countryside, covered with yellow daisies as far as the eye can see we toured the south coast of Malta.
After miles of yellow daisies along the southern side of the island, . .
past St.Lucian's Tower. . .
to the rocky south shore of Malta near their own Blue Grotto. . .
but we decided to stay on board. . .it was getting to be lunch time.
Then we were back to Sliema with its highrises and cafes.
Sliema skyline. . .
is a backdrop for the tour buses. . .
and cafes surrounded by flowers.
Amid all the hustle and bustle of the Easter holiday, life in Malta, like life everywhere has an “everyday” aspect.
Flags remain at half staff, with laundry hanging underneath, until Easter Sunday. . .
making everyday laundry day in Malta!
One of the most surprising things about Malta was the language. Given its long history as an English territory before becoming an independent country we expected English to be the predominant language. The Maltese speak their own language, although most all speak English as a second language. So as you stroll through the villages you rarely hear spoken English unless you initiate a conversation.
But some language is Universal. . .like little girls in pink.
The Festival of St. Joseph (San Giuseppe in Italian) is celebrated throughout Sicily on or near March 19th each year. San Giuseppe, the Biblical “father” of Christ is the patron saint of Sicily. On a recent Sunday evening we saw a nearly life size statue of the saint carried from the local church in Marina di Ragusa on a flower decked bier as faithful followers paraded through the streets in homage.
A priest leads the procession bearing the statue of San Giuseppe
The pageantry is followed by fireworks over the sea for those who are patient enough to wait for the very slowly moving processional to return to the church. This is not a night for small children as no fireworks can occur until San Giuseppe is safely ensconced back in his sanctuary. Bells peal throughout the evening air as children shriek with delight at the colorful balloons being hawked on every corner.
The Marina di Ragusa town square was crowded with people from mid-day as families promenaded along the palm lined beachfront soaking up the spring sun. The temperatures this time of year are in the mid-60’s F. and the sky is robin’s egg blue. The beachfront palm trees are wind-battered from a recent storm but spring has definitely arrived in time for the festival.
People start gathering early in the day at the Town Square. . .
and by evening the square has a carnival atmosphere with balloons and lights.
Many towns throughout Sicily honor San Giuseppe with their own day or days of Festival activities featuring parades, music and fireworks.
After waiting nearly two hours for the procession in Marina di Ragusa to tuck San Giuseppe in for the night, we made our way back to the boat to tuck ourselves in.
Our motley crew waiting for the procession.
The minute we laid our heads on the pillow, the fireworks commenced. Even from the marina they lit the evening sky in a final salute to San Giuseppe.
By the time the fireworks went off we were back on Destiny and ready for bed!
The prior evening the nearby seaside town of Donnalucca was the site of a celebration that included flower bedecked horses of the Calvacata of San Giuseppe. This spectacle which is purported to be a re-enactment of the flight of Mary, Joseph and Jesus to Egypt is like our Tournament of Roses Parade with horses as the floats.
In front of the church, Mary, Joseph and the child along with a lowly donkey are greeted by the ornately bedecked horses and riders.
San Giuseppe & family are honored guests in Donnalucca. . .
as crowds line the street waiting for the parade.
The horses, which are massive creatures towering well over the heads of the parade goers, were decorated from head to hoof with elaborate structures covered with flowers artfully crafted into Biblical scenes commemorating the life of San Giuseppe.
Horse and rider both in "costume". . .
but the horse is the center of attention. . .
and each is a virtual work of art. . .
with intricate pictures created entirely of flowers and petals.
Floral frescoes, seems a good description. I wormed my way through the crowded sidewalk to photograph the scene, but was hard pressed to capture a full picture. Using a flash was a little tricky too as the prospect of spooking a horse that big in a crowd hardly seemed worth the risk.
A week later the festival activities moved to the larger Town of Scicli–another of southern Sicily’s UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Scicli is known for its baroque architecture, including this church which faces the town square.
Scicli has a large square that accommodates the huge crowd of spectators for what is said to be the best horse parade of all the San Guiseppe Festivals.
We arrived at the Cavalcata festival in Scicli with a bus load of cruisers from the marina, including Roy and Madeline from the UK
The pedestrian mall that led to the town square was lined with vendors hawking everything from handblown martini glasses to children’s toys with psychedelic lights. Food vendors cooked from little stands set up on the street or served from special open-sided trucks–mini-food wagons. The scent of horses combined with roasting meat and french fries was less than appetizing to our stomachs.
For nearly two hours, the streets around the square were filled with high stepping horses with shiny coats and riders dressed in everything from a Superman shirt to native costume.
Superman. . .
looks a little lame next to this high stepper!
The horses, some of them draught horses with massive bodies and hooves the size of dinner plates, and other as sleek as racing horses, strutted their stuff for the crowd.
Check out these hooves. . .
compared to these three.
Many of the horses wore fancy collars decorated with bells that filled the square with a melodious staccato accompanied by the clip-clop of hoofs on the marble streets.
This is typical of the bell collars that many horses wear. . .
although I doubt that the horses like the noise they make.
Finally, after hours of anticipation, the flower festooned horses of the Calvacata arrive as a finale to the parade.
Believe it or not. . .there is a horse under there.
The horses are hidden under elaborate structures that cover them from head to hoof. The head pieces on some of the horses are so large that you can barely discern that there is an animal underneath.
The headdresses are so large its all the animal can do to keep it upright.
Some of the horses are covered with blankets made of flowers and others with pictures of San Guiseppe fashioned from flowers.
This horse's "blanket" is made of flowers in an intricate design, and palm leaves give the illusion of floating across the ground.
San Giuseppe adorns many of the "horse floats".
I was reminded of medieval pictures of horses in elaborate armour. Adults often accompanied by a child, each attired in native costume of black velvet pants, white shirts with intricately embroidered vests, colorful scarfs, and long black stocking caps rode atop each horse.
Not all of the children looked thrilled to be on these massive animals.
Alongside a handler dressed in native attire is on each side with firm grip on the bridle as a precaution. Not all the horses are happy to be decked out in such silly attire.
If you look closely, you can see one very scared horse.
The Festival of San Giuseppe has deep roots in Sicilian history and culture. It is a religious festival first and foremost, but coming as it does in the month of March has not been usurped by tourism. It is a festival for and by the people who live in Sicily all year. It is a time for families to celebrate spring and to honor the Father of Christ as they honor their own fathers.
We're not sure. . .but think the ribbons on the handlers indicates that this may be a prize winning entry.
As in any crowd for a festival, there are also people who stand out.
Seeing double??
I can’t wait to see what how Sicilians celebrate Easter, but parades and fireworks are expected.