Archive for the ‘Turkey’ Category


July 7th, 2011 No comments

Our original plan had been to go as far north as the Dardanelles and possibly Istanbul, but the time we spent going east to Kekova Roads meant that we were heading north in mid-June when the meltemi starts blowing.  After a few days of 20+ kts. on the nose, we decided that north was not the direction to be traveling. 

Since we had purchased some boat parts in Turkey (including the windlass) we wanted to collect the VAT on those items when we left the country which meant checking out at Kusadasi about 70 NM north of Turgutreis.  Kusadasi is a cruise ship port and is one of several locations in Turkey where VAT can be reimbursed.

Kusadasi has ancient forts. . .

and modern cruise ships.

Along the way we visited an out of the way ancient site at Iassus, which is a small harbor sitting at the head of a very large bay. 

The ruins of a Byzantine tower sits at the entrance to the ancient harbor of Iassus.

A tiny fishing village now sits at the head of the narrow harbor. . .

replete with tiny fishing boats. . .

and fish vendors--this was dinner!

This site is so “out of the way” that it has more cattle grazing among the ruins than visitors and the Lonely Planet guide devotes about two paragraphs to describing it,  including a mention that “the admission is $2US if anyone is there to collect it”.

At the highest point on the penisula stands the ruins of a Byzantine fortress. . .

with turrets. . .

and steps.

We saw no other visitors while we were there, but had plenty of company.

The ruins are now inhabited. . .

grazing cattle. . .

some of whom aren't too fond of visitors. . .

and more docile sheep.

We came upon a fenced, roofed area that looked like an excavation, but proved to be an exhibit, although not well maintained of the interior portions of what appeared to be a an ancient residence.  There were several conjoined rooms each with beautiful mosaic tile floors, mostly in black and white motif and walls with remnants of paint.

Mosaic floors. . .

with intricate designs. . .

have been covered with roofs, but lie unattended.

We anchored at the head of a large bay that is also a weather refuge for large ships awaiting their next trip. 

In the distance one of many freighters anchored in the bay.

We left in light winds expecting an easy sail to our next stop, Altimkum.

Once outside the meltemi was ferocious and we pounded into 25-30 kt. winds and large, close swells for about 20 NM dodging massive fish farms–I stopped counting at 35. 

The fish farms. . .even in calm weather

are big business here--and dangerous to navigation!

Altimkum was a beach town with hotels, bars and restaurants lining the shore and we got little sleep as the euro-beat rocked the town.

Anchored off Altimkum. . .

there was lots of music from day trip boats . .

not to mention dancing girls!

The next day the wind was still howling from the northwest and we moved a few miles to an anchorage that was quiet, if not a little rolly.  At least we didn’t have to contend with daytrip boats anchoring in front of us and dragging anchor.

To head for Kusadasi meant heading straight into the wind, still strong from the north, so we diverted to a little Greek island 17 NM off the Turkish coast which we made in a fast sail.  Agathanisi was a gem.  We anchored in a small harbor on sand in crystal clear water.  No need for Kent to dive on the anchor—you could see it from the boat.

The yellow umbrella is at Seaside Restaurant--good food!

There were several little tavernas, a small market and a concrete quay where a ferry arrived once at day at 3:30 p.m.  Private boats lined the quay other times, but we anchored out and then tied to shore when the wind came up.

The restaurant where we had both lunch and dinner (it was so good) served all organic produce.  The goat and cheese on the menu were both local to the island as well.  Hard to imagine given the rocky, desolate terrain.

When we woke the next morning, the meltemi winds had subsided and we were up early for a 33 NM motor trip to Kusadasi.  We went through the Samos Straits, less than one mile separating Greece and Turkey at its narrowest point, and were checked into the marina by noon. 

Turkey on left--Greece on right, passing through Samos Straits

With the help of the customs agent at the marina (55 euros worth of help) we checked out of Turkey and collected the several hundred dollars of VAT.

The last time we were in Kusadasi it was on a land tour and we experienced our first earthquake in a hotel on the waterfront.  We couldn’t help but wonder how an earthquake feels on a boat as we watched sunset over the Kusadasi marina.

Kusadasi Sunset

We are sad to be leaving Turkey.  It is the place we have spent the most time so far, and where we have made so many cruising friends.  Many of them have said “you’ll be back”—meaning that we won’t be able to stay away from Turkey.

Admittedly, Turkey is the best cruising venue we have encountered in the Med.  The Turkish people are friendly and industrious.  There are countless anchorages, lively cities and quaint seaside restaurants.  Goats roam the hillside and farm tractors compete for space with cars on roads.  Turkey is a crossroads of ancient history and its ruins and museums are some of the best in the world.  It would be very easy to spend 5 to 10 years here as has been the case for some friends we have met.

For now we are heading west and will winter in Sicily—next year, who knows?

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June 19th, 2011 No comments

On June 23, 2010 we arrived in Turkey, checking in at Turgutries about 5 NM from the Greek island of Kos.  Little did we anticipate then that we would still be in Turkey a year later—but here we are.   We recently returned to Turgutries, almost  a year later, to visit friends, Ed and Helen who have a lovely home there as we head north and then to Greece. 

Ed & Helen met us at D-Marin in Turgutries

When we arrived in Turkey last year, we thought we might stay a month or maybe six weeks if we liked it.  Now that we are leaving and heading west to Sicily—our winter destination this year—it is sad to be leaving this wonderful country and the many friends that we have made here.  We are not saying “good-bye” to anyone—just “until we see you again.”

Leaving Marmaris for what may be the last time. . .

the mountains frame the bay.

From Marmaris we revisited several of our favorite spots as well as some new ones.

We spent a couple of nights avoiding meltemi winds in the protected anchorage at Keci Buku and had cocktails aboard Destiny with our friends from S/V Meg, S/V Petronella and M/Y Nevada. 

We sailed wing on wing to Keci Buku

Entrance to Keci Buku--Castle on island to starboard side

The fortified island sits in the middle of the bay and offers protection from the meltemi.

The last time we were here we snorkeled the entire circumference of the island, but this time we hiked to the top of the castle ruins on a steep rocky path.

There is a breach in the wall. . .

and a treacherous path that leads to the top. . .

from which we could see Destiny centered in the anchorage.

There is a prominent sand bar that extends almost across the bay that attracts tourists.

Bathers wade inside the safety of a swim area separating them from jet skis.

Next we went to Panormitis on the Greek island of Simi just long enough to purchase some provisions.   Panormitis is a lake-like harbor at the southwest end of Simi which is home to a monastery and frequented by ferries this time of year.

By sunset the day trip boats have departed and the anchorage is peaceful.

Liquor and wine are heavily taxed in Turkey, and Kent was running low on Mt. Gay rum from our last visit there in April.   With the fridge/freezer stocked with pork—also not readily available in Turkey for religious reasons—as well as smoked salmon, tzatziki, Greek yogurt,  and other delicacies we headed back to Turkey.

We had dinner at Ogun’s Restaurant and moored for the first time at a town dock in the little cove at Ova Buku. 

The town dock holds 10-12 boats moored Med style. . .

adjacent to a lovely sand beach complete with umbrellas and chaises.

Directly across from the town dock is Ogun's Restaurant--a garden oasis.

From the restaurant that evening we saw the near full moon through Destiny's rigging.

Dinner was wonderful and for 35 TL (about $23) at the town dock we had electricity and plentiful water to wash Destiny, some cushion covers and Jolie. 

The following night we anchored under a full moon in the ancient harbor of Knidos, site of famous ruins that we explored last year.

Full moon over Knidos is a backdrop for several gulets.

After a brief overnight stop in Bodrum where Kent went to West Marine to return a defective solar vent fan we headed for Turgutries and our rendevouz with Ed and Helen, who graciously entertained us in their home and introduced us to Swedish friends who live nearby.   Cocktails turned out to be “dinner” as the smorgasbord of mezzes was enjoyed by all–not to mention the fabulous sunset.

Cocktails--Swedish style

Turgutreis sunset

It feels like we have come full circle to be back in Turgutries and I am a little melancholy that our time in Turkey is coming to an end.  Although we intended to head north from Turgutries, we only made it to the next harbor 5 NM away before we ran out of gas for the stove.

So, here we are backtracking again, this time to Bodrum where we hope to be able to get the gas we need before heading off to Greece.  We had a great sail and even saw gulet under full sail–this is remarkable as they rarely sail–definte proof tht the summer winds have arrived.

Gulet under sail in meltemi wind

Today is Father’s Day and we are anchored just off St. Peter’s Castle in Bodrum and the late afternooon meltemi is blowing 18-20 kts. as you can see by the Turkish flag flying over the castle.

View of St. Peter's Castle from Destiny

There is something nice about revisiting a place that you have already explored.  No need to climb the castle ramparts again in Bodrum or the ruins in Knidos.  I can just appreciate that they are there.

There will be new harbors and bays to explore as we head north to Kusadasi where we plan to check out of Turkey and into Greece.  Can’t wait!

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May 29th, 2011 1 comment

Approximately 3 NM from the town of Kas is Kastellorizon, one of the most remote Greek islands.  Boats travelling the southern Turkish coast pass between it and the Turkish mainland, and it is said that hoisting a Greek flag is sufficient to make a brief visit there without observing formalties.

We wanted to visit Kastelorizon and considered taking Destiny there “under the radar” so to speak, but also had an issue with our current Turkish visas expiring in mid-June which meant we needed to leave Turkey for the day and get a new 90 day visa upon our return.

A trip to Kastelorizon proved to be quick and much less expensive than traveling from Marmaris to Rhodes as we had previously planned.  A local travel agent was recommended to us who arranged all the passport requirements and the ferry tickets.

Leaving Kas Harbor on the ferry. . .

was a new experience for me. . .we don't have beanbag chairs on Destiny.

The ferry ride from Kas took about 30 minutes.  Arriving in Kastelorizon was like visiting a movie set for a Greek village.  All the houses looked fairly new and freshly painted.  The ruins of a picturesque castle perch over the small harbor which is surrounded by small colorful fishing boats.

Much of Kastellorizon is undeveloped. . .

but the harbor is lined with post card perfect houses. . .

but the harbor is lined with post card perfect houses. . .

and cafes. . .

and colorful boats. . .absolutely enchanting.

Exiting the ferry and with hours to kill before lunch time, we headed off to find the path to the castle.  It turned out that we took the long and steep route, but it took us by a Lycian tomb from the 4th Century B.C.

We followed a seaside walkway. . .

and climbed up. . .

and then walked some more. . .

first to a 4th Century B.C. Lycian tomb. . .

and finally reaching the castle.

The walkway along the sea was impressive, and after climbing various stairs we reached the long set that approached the castle.  Having come that far we were not deterred from the last step climb and were rewarded with panoramic views of the island, its surrounding islets and Kas in the distance.

View of the harbor. . .

with boats arriving at the quay.

From the castle the view of the harbor was impressive.  Several private sailboats were at the quay, but for the most part other than island residents the only people around were those from our small ferry.  The island was lush with flowers, so much so that Kent couldn’t resist playing in them.

Lush with flowers. . .

and petals on the ground.

There were several churches on the island, but none unlocked.  The clock tower on one of the churches did chime during our stay which included a lovely lunch at a restaurant owned by an Australian.  Mousakka every bit as good “as Mama’s” in my opinion—“Mama” being a little Greek woman we met off season at a beachside taverna who served us her family’s lunch.

Lunch at a Greek taverna owned by an Australian whose mother was born on the island.

After lunch Kent decided to try his hand at a traditional Greek past-time.

. . .mending fishing nets.

One sure sign that we were in Greece was the abundance of blue and white–the sea and sky of course, but also

Blue and white on buildings. . .

and boats. . .

and of course the Greek flag.

One of the additional benefits of our day trip to Greece was being able to purchase duty free liquor to bring back to Turkey.  Alcohol is heavily taxed in Turkey, even the local wines. Entering the EU means getting access to liquor that is not imported or can only be had in Turkey at exorbitant prices.  We are now stocked up with gin and vodka that should last until we are back in Greece later this summer.

Leaving the island proved interesting when a mega-ferry arrived just as we were about to depart. 

Kastelorizon has ferries from mainland Greece. . .

. . .that leave little room for a small Turkish ferry to pass.

As we finally squeeze by the Greek ferry we can see Kas on the distant hillside.  Back to Turkey!

Our journey east now ended, we are heading west and then north, possibly as far as Istanbul.  From Kas we will back track to Fethiye where we hope to meet up with friends before returning to Marmaris to say “good-bye” to yet more friends.

 Then we’ll see where the wind blows—but hopefully it will be favorable to go north.

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May 29th, 2011 No comments

Our plan for the season included going east along the southern coast of Turkey (called the Lycian coast) as far as Kekova Adasi, a four mile long island that protects numerous harbors and small bays from the prevailing wind. Set along the shore of Kekova Roads, as the leeward passage between the island and mainland is called, are numerous castles, forts and other ancient ruins. 

Leaving Marmaris in mid-May we revisited places that we first saw last year, including several in the large Gulf of Fethiye.  The two main towns in the Gulf are Gocek in the northwest end and Fethiye in the southeast. 

Dusk at Gocek town marina

Both towns were just coming to life but there was no shortage of space at the town dock in Gocek or Yacht Classic in Fethiye (one of our favorite stops last year). 

The fish market in Fethiye is charming.  You purchase the fish of your choice at one of the several markets and then take the fish to an adjacent restaurant where they will cook the fish for you and provide salad and bread to accompany it for 7TL.

Fethiye Fish Market--our fish bagged and ready to go

to a nearby grill and then my plate.

After spending a few nights in the Fethiye area, and one night at Cold Water Bay—another favorite from last year, we pushed further east to Kas.

Coldwater Bay is a charming little cove with a nice restaurant

I say “pushed” as opposed to sailed because the winds are very light and fickle this time of year.  The best we could hope for was not to have a strong breeze from the east since that was the direction we were motoring. 

From Fethiye to Kas is approximately 54 NM and you pass by the Seven Capes which are notorious for strong winds later in the season, and a 7 mile long beach with sand dunes reminiscent of Cape Cod–except for the mountains in the backgroud.

Seven Capes rise steeply. . .

with tops shrouded in clouds. . .

then 7 miles of beach and dunes.

Kas harbor is small and very crowded with daytrip boats and gulets that ferry passengers to the nearby Greek island of Kastelorizon and the many sights in Kekova Roads.  Kas was also part of Greece until the population exchange in the early 1920’s and retains much of its Greek charm.

We anchored for several days in a well protected bay just south of the town in front of idyllic vacation homes and hotels that can only be reached by boat. 

Full moon over Bayindar Limani, the bay south of Kas

When Kent was looking for a place to walk Jolie he was invited ashore by an Italian gentlemen whose house overlooked the bay and had a dock.  Alessandro had a small white dog that enjoyed playing with Jolie while Kent was served Nescafe.

Alessandro's house is hidden from view by pine trees and surrounded by lush flowers

Later that day we received an impromptu dinner invitation from Alessandro and his Turkish born wife.  Dinner was served alfresco under a large olive tree in the courtyard of their multi-building house with a full moon overhead.  What was billed as a family “spaghetti dinner” was really several courses, including grilled beef filets and topped off with chocolate and ice cold watermelon.

There is a new marina in Kas that sits in a bay just west of the town and we also spent several nights there (currently free of charge as they are awaiting their final license from the government) both coming and going from Kekova Roads.  The marina which will hold over 400 boats currently has fewer than 20 at its several docks and is offering many financial incentives to lure customers.

The mountains make a dramatic backdrop to Kas Marina

Our first stop on Kekova Adasi was a small bay on the south side called Karaloz.  The cruising guide calls this “a miniature fjord” that is “grand and rugged”.  The water is crystal clear and dropping our anchor in 35 ft. of water, we could see from deck that it was well set in the sand.   

Rocky slopes surround the Karaloz anchorage

The cove-like area to the east of the entrance is just wide enough to drop your anchor on one side and tie stern to shore on the other side. 

The entrance to Karaloz as seen from inside. . .narrow but deep.

Although the guide describes a large cave on the east side of the entrance as being a visual reference, the entrance itself is difficult to find, because it is narrow—one of those times that GPS coordinates are particularly helpful. 

Finding a place to land Jolie ashore was a challenge for Kent—flat rocks about the best he could do.

Jolie goes rock climbing at Karaloz

. . .but getting into the dinghy is tricky.

After one night at Karaloz we stopped briefly in Andraki, which is mostly a staging area for local daytrip boats and gulets.  There was a mini-market sufficient for buying bread and wine that we needed, but not much else.  Many of the local commercial boats were anchored out as dredging was being done along the docks.

Dredging at Andraki

kept many boats anchored off shore. . .

including Destiny.

Heading into Kekova Roads from Andraki we started up one channel only to find that a cable referenced on the chart was overhead not under water.  Not wanting to tempt fate and feeling uncomfortable relying on the approximate height noted, we opted to turn back and enter the anchorage at Gokkaya Limani from the other channel.  On the way we passed large cave that is quite a tourist attraction–it was easy to see because a tripper boat was edging into its entrance.

This boat could nose into the cave but not turn around inside.

Just off Ashil Adasi (an island at the entrance to Gokkaya), we were approached by a small fishing boat and offered a 1 kilo snapper still flopping with a hook in its mouth.  Fish doesn’t get any fresher than this, and after a little haggling we bought the fish for 40TL—still pretty expensive at 20 euros, but well worth it.

Gokkaya is pristine. . .reminded us of Maine, only warmer.

One of the features of this anchorage is several small islets. We quickly found one to our liking and dropped the anchor in 15 ft. of crystal clear water, tying our stern to our own private little island. 

Jolie relaxes in the cockpit. . .

while Kent cooks our fish.

As dusk falls the water is so still the rocks of our little islet reflect in it.

The next morning we toured Gokkaya in the dinghy.  Our first stop was the nearby cave.

The entrance to the cave was quite large. . .

The entrance to the cave was quite large. . .

and inside soaring rock walls. . .

plunged into iridescent blue water so clear that you could see the rock formations below the surface.

Our dinghy tour next went to the headland of the Gokkaya bay to a ruins that looked interesting.  From this vantage point we could see the entire bay.

We could see Destiny moored off the islet in the distance.

As we were enjoying the view, Kent heard the distant sound a bell coming our way and we realized that a herd of goats was heading our way.  Not knowing how friendly these goats might be we quickly headed for the dinghy.  The goats were faster than we were, and suddenly we found ourselves separated and goats coming from every direction.

The goats just kept coming and I couldn't get by them. Kent was on the otherside, but the dinghy was also surrounded by goats.

The goat herder said they were harmless. . .

but I didn't like the look of these horns.

We have seen many goats in our travels, but this was our first close encounter.  From a distance they seem about the size of a large dog–up close they appear to be the size of a small pony.  When they are trotting by in large numbers you feel the ground vibrate and the horns on some of them were 12 inches long.  Needless to say I was very glad when their numbers twindled and we could finally make it back to the dinghy.

Our next stop was a little more sedate–a castle overlooking a small bay nearby Gokkaya.  However, I stayed with the dinghy while Kent explored content to take pictures from a safe distance.

This castle sits atop a small unnamed bay near Gokkaya

Kent picked flowers for me as he hiked to the castle

When we returned to Destiny we realized that the stunningly beautiful spot we picked was thought to be the same by day trip boats that arrived throughout the day seemingly in pairs.  Each set of boats would anchor, sometimes tying to our island and stay for exactly 20 minutes, during which time all the passengers jumped in the water until a horn sounded signaling that the boat was leaving. 

Day trip boats arrive at our islet. . .

and everyone dives in. . .well sort of.

Almost simultaneously, the next boats would arrive repeating the same scenario.  It became our afternoon entertainment.

It's getting a little crowded. . .

not to mention noisy--enough shrieking already!

Fortunately, in the evening we had the place to ourselves and peace and quiet returned.  We stayed in Gokkaya a second night to have dinner with our Chilean friends Jorge and Isabel on Excalibur who were on their way to Cypress where they are hoping to leave their boat next winter. 

Jolie came to dinner with us and said her goodbyes to Jorge & Isabel.

We first met Jorge and Isabel in Mystic, CT while heading down the east coast on our way to the Caribbean.  They participated in the Caribbean 1500 with us in 2008 and shipped to Genoa at the same time in 2009.  Our paths are now diverging, and we will miss sharing good times with them.

From Gokkaya we went west through Kekova Roads to the lake-like bay at Ucagiz.  The entrance to this bay is near the west entrance to Kekova Roads and sits under a castle, the ramparts of which offer a visual reference. 

The Castle at Kale Koy has well preserved ramparts

There were several small bays and anchorages that we passed along the way, but the distance between Gokkaya on the east end and Ucagiz on the west end of Kekova Roads is a mere 4 NM.

Kale Koy which is the small hamlet that sits just under the castle faces Kekova Roads and is suitable for anchorage in calm weather only.  It is the site of a sunken city.  The ruins of the ancient Lycian city of Simena dating to the 4th Century B.C. can be seen partly sunken beneath water after earthquakes. 

Solitary Lycian tomb in midst of sunken city of Simena

We anchored west of the town of Ucangiz just off a necropolis which contained numerous Lycian tombs.  It is hard to imagine how ancient Lycians created and placed these massive structures where they have now stood for 2-3,000 years.

Lycian tombs line the shore of our anchorage at Ucagiz.

Kent & Jolie tomb sitting

The next day we visited Kale Koy by dinghy and hiked up the steep hillside to the castle.  From the castle you can see remnants of the city upon which the current restaurants and other buildings have been constructed.

From the castle you see the two narrow west entrances to Kekova Roads. . .and the town of Kale Koy below.

The castle is remarkable in a couple respects.  It has ramparts and walls that have survived the centuries remarkably in tact. 

Carol at the Castle

It has a small theater that is carved into the bedrock, which reportedly seated up to 700 people in 7 tiers.  Kent speculates that ancient people had to be much smaller for this theater to have accommodated that number.

Theater carved into rock

. . .has views to the entrance of Kekova Roads.

The views from the castle are sweeping, and include not only Lycian tombs, but a fertile valley under cultivation.

Tomatoes and other veggies are plentiful thanks to the fertile valley below the castle.

The town of Ucagiz has some residences, but is mostly seaside restaurants and other tourist businesses.  There are fishing boats, but many more day trip boats and gulets.  The town is lush with bougainvillea this time of year.

Bougainvillia covers shops. . .

and houses.

A small anchorage at the head of Polermos Buku (bay) was our next stop.  There is one small restaurant and a well protected anchorage surrounded by high cliffs on the south side.  The steep cliffs are tree covered and quite green.  While Kent was ashore with Jolie he was told about another sunken village directly across a narrow ismuth that separated this bay from the next one.

View east up Kekova Roads from the anchorage at Polemos

Rather than hiking over land to the sunken city, we took Destiny around to Asar Buku.  The remains of the ancient city and port of Aperlae dot the hillside and extend down into the water on the north side of the bay. 

Ruins of Aperlae at edge of and below water

Portions of city wall remains but couldn't protect against earthquakes.

Taking care to avoid the underwater ruins, we anchored and then snorkeled along the shore.  It was one time I wished I had purchased a waterproof camera this winter. 

Ancient sargophagi share the beach with chairs for sunbathing. . .a study in contrasts.

The distance from Kekova Roads back to Kas Marina, even with the diversion to Asar Buku was only 21 NM.  

Sunset at Kas Marina

Our next stop will be the Greek island of Kastellorizon several miles from Kas which we have passed already several times on Destiny.  Our Turkish visas are about to expire and a ferry trip to Kastellorizon will allow us to check into Greece and then renew our visa for another 90 days when we return to Kas.

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May 13th, 2011 No comments

OK, I’m not a terribly superstitious person, but Friday the 13th does make me careful not to walk under ladders and I definitely avoid black cats.  Friday, May 13th was no exception, except that we are in Turkey and the main concern is whether something will break on the boat. . .and of course the spring weather.

Leaving Fethiye the weather was threatening

As it happened the day started out uneventfully.  Nothing broke and we were off anchor without a problem heading east to a little cove called “Cold Water Bay”—that is until the scary, dark clouds on the horizon and wind on our nose prompted a change of course.

It is always preferable to be going with the wind rather than against it.

We thought we left the stormy weather behind us as we turned west. . .

The weather seemed to follow us. . .if we went east or west.

We headed to Wall Bay west of Fethiye, and arrived just before the torrential rain, lightning and thunder.

Destiny at Wall Bay

Safely anchored and tied to shore the weather blew through and we were greeted by passengers from a nearby gulet who were from Ohio and thought that Marblehead, was Marblehead, Ohio, not Massachusetts.  One in the group graduated from Bowling Green State Univeristy the year that I arrived—small world, as always.

Then as suddenly as the rain, thunder and lightning appeared. . .

it cleared through leaving behind a faint rainbow.

By sunset, the storm had passed through, the sunset was magnificent—we even saw a faint rainbow and the pink clouds of sunset reflected on the calm water.

The pink clouds reflect in calm water. . . like the storm never happened. . .

as Kent takes Jolie ashore.

What a heavenly Friday the 13th.  Hope yours was as special.

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