Archive

Archive for October, 2009

STARI GRAD, OTOK HVAR October 1, 2009

October 3rd, 2009 No comments

The weather forecast as we left Bol on the south coast of Otok Brac was for moderate winds from the NE, making Stari Grad a good choice for our next stop.  A fellow cruiser had recommended it as well.

Approaching Inlet at Stari Grad

Approaching Inlet at Stari Grad

Stari Grad is an ancient town with many old buildings and churches that is located on a narrow inlet at the head of a large bay on the NW end of the island of Hvar.

One of Many Ancient Buildings

One of Many Ancient Buildings

 

Many churches

Many churches

The bay has several possible anchorages with some protection depending on the direction of the wind, but the town itself is protected from all directions except W.   The hills surrounding the bay are covered with pines and mostly uninhabited.

Bay outside Stari Grad

Bay outside Stari Grad

The town provides water and electricity at the quay for about $56 (280 kn) or moorings for 100 kn (about $20)—we took a mooring which was first in a line of many opposite the quay.  As of October 10th they stop collecting fees according to the young man that came by for our 100 kn.

Town Quay at Dusk

Town Quay at Dusk

 

Moorings line harbor opposite quay

Moorings line harbor opposite quay

There are day trip boats that bring tourists to the harbor, but they dock at the very entrance.  That combined with the ferries docking outside the main harbor makes for little wake disturbance.

Moonrise over Town Buildings

Moonrise over Town Buildings

There is a large supermarket and an outdoor fruit and vegetable market at the very head of the harbor  Next to the supermarket is a well stocked hardware store, and a couple doors a way a chandlery.  It has the usual assortment of outdoor cafes and restaurants.

We liked the town very much in the off season, but can imagine that is quite different during the height of the tourist season. 

September has been a perfect month for weather with cooler nights, and warm days and water for swimming.  There are fewer and fewer boats as the season winds down which is great for finding a mooring or sometimes a free stop at the quay.  By October, the restaurants that were bustling a month ago are all but deserted and many businesses close by mid-late October.

From here we start back north to Sukosan and eventually Marina Dalmacija where the boat will be hauled.

Categories: Croatia, Europe Tags:

OTOK BRAC

October 1st, 2009 No comments

The island of Brac (Otok is island in Croatian) is the third largest island in the Adriatic and has the highest peak, Vidova Gora, at 778 meters (over 2,500 ft.).  The appearance of the island was rather barren and rocky as we motored (again no wind) along the south coast of the island after leaving Makarska.  The longest part of the island runs east-west and parallel to the mainland SE of Split.

Rocky Coastline

Rocky Coastline

The island is famous for its stone which has been quarried for centuries and at one time agriculture was bigger than tourism as a way of life.  There are terraced stone walls everywhere in Croatia that were once cultivated fields but now lie fallow.  Most of these walls are several feet high and wide–made of thousands and thousands of rocks all placed by hand over the centuries.

Fallow Fields

Fallow Fields

More amazing was seeing the plots still under cultivation on the steep, parched mountain side.

Rocky Cultivation

Rocky Cultivation

The main town on the south of Brac is Bol, a small fishing harbor that provides some shelter and a town quay with tailed lines and electricity  for visiting boats.  The cost, as was the case in Makarska was very expensive—over $80 US so we opted to pick up a mooring outside the harbor and went ashore by dinghy to explore.

Approaching Bol

Approaching Bol

Kent goes Scouting

Kent goes Scouting

 Fortunately, the weather was calm overnight because the mooring was exposed. 

October 1st Sunrise at Bol

October 1st Sunrise at Bol

The biggest attraction at Bol is the  spit called Veli Rat which is about ½ mile from the town.  It is the largest and reputedly the “nicest” beach in all of Croatia.  Most “beaches” are rock platforms but Veli Rat, while not sand is small pebbles and at least walkable.  The white beach against backdrop of pine trees and mountains is dramatic.    

Approaching the Tip of Veli Rat

Approaching the Tip of Veli Rat Veli Rat

This is what passes for sand in Croatia

This is what passes for sand in Croatia

Destiny off Veli Rat

Destiny off Veli Rat

 

More chairs than tourists in Oct.

More chairs than tourists in Oct.

Although October has arrived and the nights are cooler, the days are still sunny and warm and the water temperature still lingers around 80 degrees making swimming pleasant.  We have our share of threatening weather but much of it passes by without a drop of rain–like today.

Here comes the Weather

Here comes the Weather

Time is flying by as we approach the end of our stay in Croatia.  Over the next couple of weeks we will head back north to Sukosan where the boat will be hauled for the winter.  We can’t believe we’ve been here five months–it has been great fun.

Categories: Croatia, Europe Tags: