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BACKTRACKING–MARMARIS TO TURGUTREIS

June 19th, 2011 No comments

On June 23, 2010 we arrived in Turkey, checking in at Turgutries about 5 NM from the Greek island of Kos.  Little did we anticipate then that we would still be in Turkey a year later—but here we are.   We recently returned to Turgutries, almost  a year later, to visit friends, Ed and Helen who have a lovely home there as we head north and then to Greece. 

Ed & Helen met us at D-Marin in Turgutries

When we arrived in Turkey last year, we thought we might stay a month or maybe six weeks if we liked it.  Now that we are leaving and heading west to Sicily—our winter destination this year—it is sad to be leaving this wonderful country and the many friends that we have made here.  We are not saying “good-bye” to anyone—just “until we see you again.”

Leaving Marmaris for what may be the last time. . .

the mountains frame the bay.

From Marmaris we revisited several of our favorite spots as well as some new ones.

We spent a couple of nights avoiding meltemi winds in the protected anchorage at Keci Buku and had cocktails aboard Destiny with our friends from S/V Meg, S/V Petronella and M/Y Nevada. 

We sailed wing on wing to Keci Buku

Entrance to Keci Buku--Castle on island to starboard side

The fortified island sits in the middle of the bay and offers protection from the meltemi.

The last time we were here we snorkeled the entire circumference of the island, but this time we hiked to the top of the castle ruins on a steep rocky path.

There is a breach in the wall. . .

and a treacherous path that leads to the top. . .

from which we could see Destiny centered in the anchorage.

There is a prominent sand bar that extends almost across the bay that attracts tourists.

Bathers wade inside the safety of a swim area separating them from jet skis.

Next we went to Panormitis on the Greek island of Simi just long enough to purchase some provisions.   Panormitis is a lake-like harbor at the southwest end of Simi which is home to a monastery and frequented by ferries this time of year.

By sunset the day trip boats have departed and the anchorage is peaceful.

Liquor and wine are heavily taxed in Turkey, and Kent was running low on Mt. Gay rum from our last visit there in April.   With the fridge/freezer stocked with pork—also not readily available in Turkey for religious reasons—as well as smoked salmon, tzatziki, Greek yogurt,  and other delicacies we headed back to Turkey.

We had dinner at Ogun’s Restaurant and moored for the first time at a town dock in the little cove at Ova Buku. 

The town dock holds 10-12 boats moored Med style. . .

adjacent to a lovely sand beach complete with umbrellas and chaises.

Directly across from the town dock is Ogun's Restaurant--a garden oasis.

From the restaurant that evening we saw the near full moon through Destiny's rigging.

Dinner was wonderful and for 35 TL (about $23) at the town dock we had electricity and plentiful water to wash Destiny, some cushion covers and Jolie. 

The following night we anchored under a full moon in the ancient harbor of Knidos, site of famous ruins that we explored last year.

Full moon over Knidos is a backdrop for several gulets.

After a brief overnight stop in Bodrum where Kent went to West Marine to return a defective solar vent fan we headed for Turgutries and our rendevouz with Ed and Helen, who graciously entertained us in their home and introduced us to Swedish friends who live nearby.   Cocktails turned out to be “dinner” as the smorgasbord of mezzes was enjoyed by all–not to mention the fabulous sunset.

Cocktails--Swedish style

Turgutreis sunset

It feels like we have come full circle to be back in Turgutries and I am a little melancholy that our time in Turkey is coming to an end.  Although we intended to head north from Turgutries, we only made it to the next harbor 5 NM away before we ran out of gas for the stove.

So, here we are backtracking again, this time to Bodrum where we hope to be able to get the gas we need before heading off to Greece.  We had a great sail and even saw gulet under full sail–this is remarkable as they rarely sail–definte proof tht the summer winds have arrived.

Gulet under sail in meltemi wind

Today is Father’s Day and we are anchored just off St. Peter’s Castle in Bodrum and the late afternooon meltemi is blowing 18-20 kts. as you can see by the Turkish flag flying over the castle.

View of St. Peter's Castle from Destiny

There is something nice about revisiting a place that you have already explored.  No need to climb the castle ramparts again in Bodrum or the ruins in Knidos.  I can just appreciate that they are there.

There will be new harbors and bays to explore as we head north to Kusadasi where we plan to check out of Turkey and into Greece.  Can’t wait!

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