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SPRING IN CROATIA—LOVE “OFF SEASON”

Having arrived in Croatia mid-July last year, our first experience of some of the places we are now revisiting was “summer madness”.  Every harbor and anchorage was crowded with boats.  The island towns were full of tourists who arrived daily on jam packed Jadrolinija ferries from mainland ports, like Split.

Summer in Hvar

Summer in Hvar

April has been a joy.  The harbor at Hvar (pronounced “Var”) which was so packed with boats in August that we had to anchor off a nearby island,  is now empty.   Destiny and Glass Slipper, who arrived just after us, are the only boats in a space that held mega-yachts and innumerable private boats when we were last here.  Better yet no one is interested in collecting “harbor dues” which are charged even to anchor in many ports during “the season”.

Destiny & Glass Slipper-April in Hvar

Destiny & Glass Slipper-April in Hvar

August in Hvar

August in Hvar

Same View April--just Destiny & Glass Slipper

Same View April--just Destiny & Glass Slipper

 The downside to these empty harbors and anchorages is the over night temperatures in the 50’s which leave the cabin frigid in the morning.  With the water temperature in the low 60’s and the air temperature in the 50’s we have condensation forming on the boat over night and also in the cabin.  When it rains, it pours and the weather patterns seem to last longer than in the summer.

The islands are covered with yellow flowering plants that appear to be similar to the scotch broom that covers Nantucket in the spring.  Everything is much greener than in last summer flowers are more prevalent and the trees are heavy with fruit.

Yellow flowers cover islands

Yellow flowers cover islands

Flowers abound in port side parks

Flowers abound in port side parks

Citrus with Castle backdrop

Citrus with Castle backdrop

 A sure sign that spring has arrived is the return of sunworshipers to the outdoor cafes that line the main square in Hvar.  As the sun moves from one side of the square to the other as the day progresses, the cafe dwellers migrate along with it.

Hvar cafe scene

Hvar cafe scene

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